Do you remember the last week's boy baby shower theme tutorial about "Ahoy! It's a Boy Lifesaver"? Here is the rest of the DIY baby shower tutorial from Summer.
Colored construction paper
Double sided sticky tape
Trace and cut out a circle from one of the construction papers. Then cut the circle in half, making two half circles. These will be the boats.
Cut a long strip about an inch wide of a different colored paper, then cut that in half. These will be the masts. Tape the masts to the half-circle boats.
Cut off a corner of a different colored paper. Tape that to the mast.
Embellish by adding sticker dots or multiple triangular sails.
Boats. Flags. Fish. It’s a boy! If you are looking for boy baby shower theme ideas, nautical themed is a perfect DIY project for you.
Summer is going to share with us a simple DIY “Ahoy, it’s a boy!” AKA “Diaper” lifesaver for her friend’s baby shower. This lifesaver can make any party more fun!
Diapers (I used 42)
Stapler, Super Glue, or Hot Glue Gun
Cardboard (2 boards)
Thin red yarn
Thick red ribbon
Decorative White Rope
Roll up one diaper and tie it with the red yarn. Leave extra length on the knot (about 6 inches). Then roll up another diaper, and using the extra length from the previous knot, tie the two diapers together. Do this with all of the diapers. Place the groups of two diapers around in a circle, pretty side up, and keep adding groups until you reach your desired shape.
Slide one of the boards under your ring of diapers, and place the other board on top. Then flip the diapers so that the underside (less pretty side) is facing up.
Using the sewing needle and red yarn, weave in and out of the groups of two diapers, connecting them. This will make the diaper ring nice and snug.
Trace the diaper ring onto the cardboard and cut along the lines you made. This will be the backing to your life preserver.
Place the cardboard backing on top of your diaper ring. Sew the diaper ring onto the cardboard, making sure not to puncture the diapers.
Once the diaper ring is fastened to the cardboard backing, flip it over so that the pretty side is now facing up. Add the finishing touches by gluing on the ribbon and rope.
Easter is one of the most colorful and fun holidays for children, so here’s the perfect DIY Easter project to go with it. You can make crochet Easter eggs with this easy, beginner crochet tutorial and give cute Easter gifts for your neighbors.
Diana is going to teach us how to make homemade Easter gifts, crochet Easter eggs. Diana said, “this is a very easy pattern, so even a beginner can make it.” Cute Easter eggs hold candy and bring an extra smile to your home and neighbors!
Crochet hook - size G
Worsted weight yarn (two colors) I like to use Red Heart yarn because it's cheap.
SC - Single Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
ST - Stitch
MR - Magic Ring
MR, make 8 SC in the ring (If you don’t know how to make MG, click here) . Pull yarn to close the hole in the ring.
Round 1: 2 SC in each - 16 stitches
Round 2: SC around - 16 stitches
Round 3: 1 SC in first st, 2 SC in 2nd st (do 8 times) - 24 stitches
Rounds 4 - 6: SC around - 24 stitches
Round 7: 1 SC in next 2 stitches, 2 SC in 3rd st (Do 8 times) - 32 stitches
Rounds 8 -11: SC around (32 stitches). SL ST in next and fasten off. Weave in ends.
MR, make 8 SC in the ring. Pull yarn to close the hole in the ring.
Round 1: 2 SC in each - 16 stitches
Round 2: 1 SC in next 2 stitches, 2 SC in 3rd st (do 5 times), 1 SC in last st - 21 stitches
Round 3: SC around (21 stitches)
Round 4: 1 SC in next 3, 2 SC in 4th st (do 5 times), 1 SC in last st - 26 stitches
Round 5: 1 SC in next 3, 2 SC in 4th st (Do 6 times), 1 SC in last 2 stitches (32 stitches)
Rounds 6 - 10: SC around (32). SL ST in next st and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Turn it inside out. The yarn from the MR will go inside.
You can do it in two different ways:
Easter-colored egg: I simply SC around with my second color. Top and bottom is the same, except for the top part of the egg. When I got to the middle (16 stitches), I made a chain of 5 or 6 stitches (depends on the size of the button you'll be using). After I made the chain, I went to the next stitch of the round (*You make the chain when you get to the 16th ST and continue in the 17th to close the chain to make a buttonhole) and continued SC around until done. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Red egg: I watched this tutorial on YouTube for the crochet chain stitch embroidery. I used the tutorial on the last round of both parts of the egg. For the top part, when I got to the middle (16 stitches), I made a chain of 5-6, went to the next stitch, and continued with the embroidery.
Put the top and bottom eggs together:
Sew the center of the back sides together (The sides where the yarn is fasten off). Weave in loose ends. Center a button on the front side of the egg.
Some people have old furniture that don’t match with the new decor or simply don’t like anymore. This simple DIY chair makeover tutorial introduces affordable and stylish dining room chairs.
Katie is going to show us how to reupholster a chair with step-by-step instruction. Let’s save money and learn how to make stylish grey chevron chairs!
Tools you’ll need:
Staple gun and staples (I have a Stanley brand one)
A staple remover (mine is Bosch brand)
Fabric (batting or fleece and your choice of pretty fabric)
Fabric (Always look for coupons online. I got my fabric for only $30)
Before-After Reupholstered Chairs
The biggest part of the whole project is actually taking all the old stuff off - which is where the staple remover and pliers come in. I put the remover
under the staple and pry it up. Sometimes it doesn’t come out completely (only one side will), and then I
use the pliers to yank it out. If the furniture you are reupholstering is a unique size or shape. It is best to keep the old fabric and use that as a template/pattern for cutting out your new fabric. My chairs were simple squares, so I didn’t need to keep the old fabric.
Step 1: After the chairs are uncovered (naked), lay your pretty fabric on a flat surface right side down (wrong side up) and lay your batting/fleece on top of that.
Step 2: Lay your chair seat piece (the thing to be covered) on top of that, and use a fabric marker to draw your cut line. My seat was pretty thick (about 3-4 inches tall), so I basically measured/eye-balled about 4 inches away from the seat, and then an additional 2 inches away from that to account for the fabric needed to staple on the bottom of the cushion.
*Better safe than sorry and cut more than you need than not enough. We can trim away any excess fabric at the end.
Step 3: Draw a circle/square 6 inches away from the cushion. After marking the fabric, I used fabric scissors to cut it out.
*I used these pieces as my pattern and cut out all fabric pieces for all my chairs (all 3 of them) at once.
A side note: I didn’t show you how I stapled the top part of the chair cushion on, and for that one, I did not cut a batting/fleece piece. The cushion just didn’t need it and I didn’t want to add extra bulk.
Step 4: When you are ready to staple the fabrics on, lay the fabrics on a flat surface (the same set-up as for measuring and cutting) with the pretty outside fabric on the bottom (right side down, wrong side up), then the batting/fleece, with the cushion on top (right side down, wrong side up). Then I chose one side to start with and stapled the batting to the cushion. Once that side was affixed, I went to the opposite side.
*This helps to create a smooth surface on the right side, and you have more control over the tension of the fabric and you can eliminate pulls and folds that might appear if you didn’t staple opposing sides.
Step 5: After 2 sides are completed, go and affix the other 2 sides.
*I always do corners last, and with these chairs, I did a pleated corner. Sometimes, depending on the chair, you can tug and staple in such a way that you won’t see any folds and it will look smooth. I didn’t mind the folds at the corners, so that’s what I did. You can also do the corners by stapling the left and right sides of the corner first and then staple the very middle last (the pleat will just look different), but I started with one side and worked my way around instead. Finish all corners the same way (aka be consistent with whatever method you choose).
Step 6: After you are finished stapling the batting, use your fabric scissors to cut away any excess fabric (I cut about 1/2”-1” away from the staples).
Step 7: Using the same technique, staple the outside fabric to the cushion.
Step 8: Use an awl (or anything pokey) to make holes in the fabric where the screw would go (so that the fabric wouldn’t bind and get twisted in with the screw).
Step 9: Attach the cushions to the chair with the screws and screwdriver.
*As you saw when I was doing that, sometimes you have to lay the chair upside down on a flat surface to get contact with the chair frame and cushion and that makes putting the screws in easier.
If you want to see more work from Kate, visit here!